London to Islamabad – September 2008
Since the first Newsletter I am pleased to say that a 1970 MGB, my wife Karyn and I have reached within one foot of India at the Waga boarder with Pakistan.
It was a great delight to travel across such a vast distance and be able to enjoy, even try and appreciate the changing face of this world - West into East - Europe into Asia. What a wonderful picture it is to be able to look over people’s back walls into the towns and villages that make up their lives on this changing 12,000 km overland journey.
And not just from the landscape, but the different cultures with the changing variety of people this brings. But the people do not change across this highway. The culture may, their religions certainly, but the people are hospitable and outgoing all across the vast expanse we travelled.
Iran is so different to the political and journalist news stories. Other than very warm and friendly towards us, the Iranians were determined to show they are not a nation of terrorists determined to destroy Israel. On the contrary, they were very keen to dislocate themselves from a Government keen on strong anti western rhetoric. A number of Iranians even called Jews their brothers! A Government out of tune with it people?
The great highlight was Baluchistan. And it was hot. The sands blew. The road disintergrated. Helman province 20 miles to the north. We had armed security guards in Iran and in Pakistan the army dug us out of sands of the desert.
My wife Karyn did comment that crossing this vast desert in an open top, 1970 MG, was not the car of choice for such adventures. ( I remember Klaus also making such a point!) And for a short time I did think Karyn and Klaus might have been right. But we survived with the MG giving us the feeling of hot sun on our necks and sand of the desert in our hair… ….
Balushistan is a vast untouched land I will explore at a latter date. I accept Baluchistan is 4x4 territory, with its vast mountain ranges between endless deserts and as the Baluch people told us one of the worlds most stunning coastlines.
Back to the Great Arc of India.
The monsoon has been terrible and I feel for the people of Bihar. I hope by the time Jim and Rod arrive in early October the rains are behind India and the team can, with the rains gone, the days cool and the sun pleasant, spend four constructive months in the hinterlands putting together a road book for quite a surreal driving experience.
The vast Indian internal countryside is not available on modern maps and so the task is to integrate historical maps of villages and roads into the vast tracks of ‘empty’ hinterland of modern maps. It is quite a task but I will on their heels.
We arrive into Cochin on the 3rd February and are away from Cochin on the 6th February for 22 days across undiscovered India, arriving in the Himalayas on the 27th February. To Delhi on the 1st March, depart the 2nd. There are no direct flights to Cochin. Emirates have a flight via Dubai. Ethiad Airways or BA and others to Mumbai or Delhi with an internal flight on Jet, Indian Airlines or Kingfisher to Cochin.
If anyone wants further nights at the Imperial in Delhi please advice and we can add to our group booking.
The tents are getting bigger! They are quite magnificent and of the finest quality with a 12’ x 12’ bedroom, two beds, rugs and furnishings, and a 12’ x 6’ wash room (shower cubicles separate) and a 12’ X 6’ veranda. This is George Everest and William Lampton crossing India as they would have camped during the Great Arc Survey of the 1820’s.
I have learnt after five Indian Rallies how to take an Indian Journey onto another level and I hope this is reflected in this eccentric and unique travelling experience.
Once north towards the Himalayas, our camping nights behind, the game parks behind us, and the small indigenous and quite bizarre hotels should be lots of fun.
We start by staying at the old Maharaja home (if my memory serves me well colonial and art deco in style) the Bhanwar Villa Palace, at Karauli. I recall this frail old palace from the Jewel of India rallies back in 1999 and 2001.
We then drive onto the oldest heritage site in India one can stay at, the Hill Fort Kesoli, before a night at the strangely named Mud Fort (!).
For the final two nights we climb into the Himalayan’s to see George Everest’s home in Musssoorie. Now we have a choice of three palace hotels! I have provisional booking at all three and I am finding it quite difficult to come to a final decision!
Other than researching great drives along the Great Arc, my next most important job is researching the wine list for our camp. I have found the Indian wine suppliers to the Taj Hotels and have arranged for bottles to be sent to UK. Two vineyards stand out and I have selected Sula Vineyards and Grover Vineyards. I remember the Grover very well. The sauvignon blank as good as any new world maker. If they arrive I’ll give you my humble opinion.
I am very pleased that ten of the twelve places on the Great Arc are now fully confirmed. If anyone is still interested please do contact me.
Best wishes
Conrad
